Lowedown III

The Wild East

"Even in the dark, everywhere seems civilised:
people are sitting outside at tables drinking, live music is playing..."


Praha (2)
We walk into a local's place recommended by Hans. We feel awkward- the management seem to dislike us (its costing £1.20 for a meal and drink) because we're Western.
A bizarre Czech TV programme is playing in the background, with people running up children's' slides ("I don't know the rules"). The meal is beef in cream sauce, with yellow bread and a slice of lemon!?! (the menu was in Czech). I don't find it especially appetising, but I don't want to cause further embarrassment by not eating it all. I attempt to thank the waiter in Czech, but he completely ignores me.

Afterwards we go into the centre of Prague, via the metro. I've noticed in the past few hours that there are thousands of pretty girls, a far higher proportion than in England, who are slim, tanned, wearing really nice clothes....We walk round the centre across Charles bridge, and up towards the castle. There are loads of tourists everywhere, although outside the centre they drop drastically.
There are a fair number of Mercedes, and BMWs around. Not everyone is poor. The streets are very clean- it could be Austria.
We walk round a park, and into a museum. There's a great view from the top of Castle hill. We don't really find the proper castle. Then we join the hoards of other tourists around Wenceslas square to watch the clock tower.
At 5.30 we go back to the Metro, changing at Florenc, like last time (Metro = 12p, for journey up to 30mins, i.e. anywhere). We blend in quite well- all the Czechs are wearing western Shorts and T-shirts. We admire the 'view' from the flat window onto a concrete flat roof/various bits of rubble.

I sit and listen to my radio for a bit, while MT writes out some postcards. Western music pumps out of every station- although its mostly 10 years old. We go for a meal which costs 280Kc for large main course, sweet, coffee, and beer, in a really smart restaurant. The waiters are more friendly, and seem impressed at my attempted Czech.
We go back to the city centre, after struggling with ticket machine, "These machines (like women!) take practise to use." (Taylor 2000).
Even in the dark, everywhere seems civilised- people are sitting outside at tables drinking, live music is playing...but then Prague isn't really Eastern Europe. There are no prostitutes around Mesto or Perlova, the Guidebook warned us there were!

At 12.00 we get back to the flat. We struggle to open the door to the flat and stumble around in the dark. After eventually working out the random locking, and lighting system, let ourselves in.
There is some meat in a dish on the kitchen table- Taylor thinks it's a snack for us. I don't, as they've completely ignored us so far-I don't expect to be invited to breakfast.
There are noises coming from the next room- a woman is crying, and Hans and another man (brother?) are shouting at each other.....


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